The Skincare Routine I Actually Use in the Southern California Sun

Instagram: @DrKoroshBorhani·@CristinaBorhani_NP·@skinbio.co

Written by Cristina Borhani, MSN, NP. Medically reviewed by Korosh Borhani, D.O., board-certified emergency physician and Medical Director of Skin Bio. Last reviewed September 10, 2026. Instagram: @CristinaBorhani_NP

I grew up in Calabasas. I have spent my whole life under this sun, and I have spent my career looking closely at what it does to skin. The San Fernando Valley in August is a specific kind of hostile: afternoons in the high nineties, midday UV readings that the EPA classifies as “very high” to “extreme,” and then the Santa Ana winds arrive in the fall and pull every drop of moisture out of your face. Skincare advice written for Seattle does not apply here.

So here is what I actually do, morning and night, and why. It is short on purpose. The best routine is the one you do every day.

The short version

  • Morning: gentle cleanse, vitamin C serum, moisturizer, and a broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher that you apply generously and reapply. The sunscreen is the whole game; everything else is a bonus.
  • Night: cleanse, a retinoid (started slowly), and a moisturizer with ceramides. Niacinamide and Azelaic Acid if you have redness or uneven tone.
  • Skip the scrubs, the daily acids and the twelve-step routines. Overdoing it in this climate causes more problems than it fixes.

Why Los Angeles skin is different

Los Angeles gets sunshine roughly three-quarters of the daylight hours in a year. In summer the midday UV index routinely sits between nine and eleven, which is the range where the EPA advises extra protection and where unprotected skin burns in minutes. The Valley adds heat: the NOAA climate normals for Woodland Hills put the average high in August at over 97 degrees, and the all-time Los Angeles County record of 121 degrees was set right here, in September 2020. Heat means sweat, dilated vessels and broken-down sunscreen. Then the dry season arrives and the Santa Ana winds, hot and desert-dry, strip the skin barrier.

The result I see in my chair every week: sun damage and pigment on people who are careful about everything else, dehydrated skin that is also breaking out, and melasma that flares every summer no matter what. The routine below is built for that.

Morning

1. A gentle cleanser, or just water

If your skin is dry or normal, a splash of lukewarm water in the morning is enough. If you are oily or you sweat overnight, a mild, non-foaming cleanser. Nothing that leaves your face feeling “squeaky.” That feeling is your barrier being stripped. My pick: https://skinbio.co/product/hydrating-cleanser/

2. Vitamin C serum

Topical vitamin C is an antioxidant that helps neutralize some of the free-radical damage UV causes and supports collagen. The evidence is specific about the form: L-ascorbic acid, at a concentration of about 10 to 20 percent, in a formula with a low pH, is what has been shown to actually get into the skin. Many derivative forms sold as “vitamin C” have not. Buy from a company that publishes the concentration, store it away from light, and replace it when it turns dark orange. Four or five drops, pressed in, wait a minute. My pick: https://skinbio.co/product/antiox-serum/

3. Moisturizer

Lightweight in summer, richer in the fall winds. Look for ceramides, glycerin or hyaluronic acid on the label. Oily skin still needs this; skipping it makes oily skin produce more oil. My pick: https://skinbio.co/product/skin-strengthening-lotion/

4. Sunscreen. The real kind, in the real amount.

This is the step that matters more than all the others combined, and it is the step almost everyone does badly. The American Academy of Dermatology’s advice is simple: broad spectrum, SPF 30 or higher, water resistant, applied fifteen minutes before you go out, reapplied about every two hours and after swimming or sweating. The face alone needs about a teaspoon. Studies show most people apply a quarter to a half of the amount needed to get the SPF on the label, which means your “SPF 50” may be performing like an SPF 15.

Mineral or chemical? Zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are the two filters the FDA has proposed as generally recognized as safe and effective; the common chemical filters are still under review for more safety data, though they remain on the market. For a face that gets a lot of sun, I personally use a tinted mineral sunscreen with zinc oxide, because the iron oxides in the tint also help block the visible light that drives melasma. And there is genuinely new news for once: in 2026 the FDA finalized approval of bemotrizinol, the first new sunscreen active ingredient in the United States in more than twenty years, so expect better-feeling broad-spectrum formulas to reach shelves.

The single best study on daily sunscreen and aging followed more than 900 adults in Australia for four and a half years. The group assigned to daily sunscreen had 24 percent less measurable skin aging than the group using it when they felt like it. Daily. Not beach days. The commute counts. My pick: https://skinbio.co/product/essential-sheer-spf-50/

Evening

1. Cleanse properly

Sunscreen, sweat and Valley dust need to come off. If you wear makeup, a double cleanse: an oil or balm cleanser first, then your gentle cleanser. Lukewarm water. Pat dry. My pick: https://skinbio.co/product/clarifying-cleanser/

2. A retinoid, started slowly

Retinoids are the only topical category with decades of evidence for improving fine lines, texture and pigment, and prescription tretinoin remains the standard. A 2025 meta-analysis of randomized trials again found significant improvement in both fine and coarse wrinkles compared with placebo. The catch is irritation, and in a dry climate it is worse. Start with a pea-sized amount two nights a week, on completely dry skin, buffered with moisturizer on top. Add a night every two weeks as tolerated. Expect some flaking in month one; if you are red and stinging, back off rather than push through. Retinoids make you more sun-sensitive, which is one more reason the morning sunscreen is non-negotiable. And they are off the table during pregnancy and breastfeeding. My pick: https://skinbio.co/product/retinol-serum/

3. Niacinamide and Azelaic Acid, if you need it

Niacinamide, a form of vitamin B3, and Azelaic Acid has good evidence for reducing red blotchiness, uneven pigment and fine lines, and for improving the skin barrier. It plays well with retinoids. If your concerns are redness or tone, this is the addition I would make before anything else. My pick: https://skinbio.co/product/brightening-serum/

4. A ceramide moisturizer

Heavier than the morning one, especially from October through February when the winds are blowing. Ceramides are the fats your barrier is made of; replacing them is how dry, tight, wind-burned skin recovers. My pick: https://skinbio.co/product/lipid-intensive-recovery-cream/

What I skip, and what I want you to skip

  • Physical scrubs. Sun-stressed skin does not need to be sanded.
  • Daily acids. A glycolic or salicylic product once or twice a week can be useful. Every day, layered under a retinoid, in this climate, is a recipe for a compromised barrier and a bad case of “sensitive skin” that is really self-inflicted.
  • Twelve-step routines. More products means more chances for irritation and less chance you do it consistently.
  • DIY lemon juice, baking soda, or anything from a viral video. Lemon on skin in the sun causes a real chemical burn called phytophotodermatitis. I have seen it.
  • Tanning beds, full stop. The Skin Cancer Foundation estimates one in five Americans will develop skin cancer by age 70, and a person’s melanoma risk doubles after more than five sunburns. Nobody needs a base tan.

Want a routine built for your skin instead of the internet’s? A skincare consultation with a clinician takes twenty minutes and usually removes products from your shelf rather than adding them.

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When a routine is not enough

Good home care slows the damage. It does not reverse the pigment, texture and laxity that decades of Southern California sun have already deposited. That is where in-office treatments earn their place: chemical peels and laser resurfacing for texture and sun spots, Morpheus8 for early laxity, and a medical evaluation for melasma that keeps coming back. A yearly skin check with a dermatologist is also not optional in this climate; new or changing spots need a professional’s eyes, not a serum.

Frequently asked questions

Do I need sunscreen indoors or in the car?

In the car, yes: side windows block far less UVA than windshields, and the left-side sun damage we see in Angelenos who commute is real. Indoors near large windows, a light layer is reasonable. Under artificial light, no.

Is mineral sunscreen better than chemical?

Both prevent sunburn and damage when used correctly. Mineral filters (zinc oxide, titanium dioxide) have the clearest safety record and, tinted, help with melasma. The best sunscreen is the one you will apply generously every day.

Can I use vitamin C and retinol together?

Yes, just not at the same moment. Vitamin C in the morning, retinoid at night.

How long before I see results from a retinoid?

Texture improves in about eight to twelve weeks; pigment and fine lines take three to six months. Consistency beats concentration.

What SPF should I use in Los Angeles?

SPF 30 or higher, broad spectrum, water resistant, applied in the full amount and reapplied. Above SPF 50 the added protection is small; the amount you apply matters far more than the number.

Sources and further reading

  1. American Academy of Dermatology. Sunscreen FAQs and statistics: SPF 30+, broad spectrum, water resistance, amount and reapplication. aad.org
  2. Skin Cancer Foundation. Skin cancer facts and statistics, including lifetime risk and sunburn-related melanoma risk. skincancer.org
  3. Hughes MCB, Williams GM, Baker P, Green AC. Sunscreen and prevention of skin aging: a randomized trial. Annals of Internal Medicine, 2013. acpjournals.org
  4. U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Sunscreen: proposed order on over-the-counter sunscreen ingredients, and the 2026 final order recognizing bemotrizinol. fda.gov
  5. Pinnell SR, et al. Topical L-ascorbic acid: percutaneous absorption studies. Dermatologic Surgery, 2001. pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  6. Meta-analysis of randomized trials of topical tretinoin for photoaging. Dermatology Practical & Conceptual, 2025. dpcj.org
  7. Bissett DL, et al. Niacinamide: a B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatologic Surgery, 2005. pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  8. U.S. Environmental Protection Agency. UV Index scale. epa.gov
  9. NOAA 1991–2020 climate normals for Woodland Hills (Pierce College) and National Weather Service reporting of the September 2020 Los Angeles County temperature record.

Follow along on Instagram: @CristinaBorhani_NP and @skinbio.co

This article is for general education and reflects one clinician’s routine and opinion. It is not medical advice for any individual. Prescription retinoids and treatment of skin conditions require evaluation by a licensed medical provider.

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